Henry Zankov, a rising knitwear designer and growing New York Fashion Week name, has been appointed artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg, becoming the first person to hold the role at the brand. In this new position, the 45-year-old designer will oversee DVF’s full creative direction, including collections and visual identity. His debut in the role is scheduled for September during New York Fashion Week. Nathan Jenden, who joined the company last year as chief design officer and vice president of creative, will report to Zankov.
The appointment marks a return to the company for Zankov, who first joined DVF in 2014 under then-creative director Jonathan Saunders. He stayed for four years before leaving to launch his own label, Zankov, in 2020. Last September, he reconnected with the brand through an exclusive DVF collection that was met with strong reception. Zankov said the opportunity reflects his admiration for Diane von Furstenberg and the women the brand represents, describing them as confident, curious, independent, and rebellious.
Born in St. Petersburg, Russia, Zankov moved to the United States with his family at age nine and grew up in New Jersey, where his closeness to New York City shaped his early interest in fashion. He studied sewing at the Fashion Institute of Technology in high school, later enrolling there to study women’s design before gravitating toward knitwear. He has said he is drawn to softer materials such as jersey, sweaters, and silk, and enjoys the challenge of creating knit garments from scratch.
Before launching his own brand, Zankov interned at cashmere label TSE and then joined Donna Karan as an assistant menswear designer after graduating. His time at DVF proved especially influential, helping him develop a lasting appreciation for color. That sensibility became a hallmark of his namesake label, which is known for vibrant hues and inventive knitwear. The brand gained momentum in 2023 when it secured its first wholesale account with Net-a-Porter. That same year, Zankov was runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, receiving $100,000. In 2024, he was named American Emerging Designer of the Year by the CFDA.
Zankov will continue to lead his own label while taking on his expanded responsibilities at DVF, positioning him across both an established heritage fashion house and a fast-rising contemporary brand. The move comes as DVF’s global chief executive officer, Graziano de Boni, works to restore the brand’s relevance and creative momentum after taking it back from its Chinese licensee and distributor, Glamel, last year. De Boni said Zankov was the right choice to bring freshness, modernity, and broader cultural relevance to the company’s product direction.
Diane von Furstenberg, now 79 and based largely in Venice, has also endorsed the appointment. She said she and Zankov “come from the same tribe,” signaling her approval as the brand enters a new chapter under his creative leadership.
