The 2027 cruise show season has begun, with major fashion houses presenting midseason collections in some of the world’s most notable destinations. Chanel opened the season on April 28 in Biarritz, France, with Matthieu Blazy making his debut cruise presentation for the house at Le Casino Municipal. The front row included Nicole Kidman, Tilda Swinton, A$AP Rocky, and Sofia Coppola, underscoring the brand’s high-profile launch.
Biarritz carries deep significance for Chanel. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel opened her first couture house in the Basque city in 1915, helping shape a new vision of modern dressing. The location also inspired the origins of resort wear, with Chanel’s 1919 collection reflecting the style of women in Biarritz. Blazy paid tribute to that heritage by opening the show with a reinterpretation of Chanel’s original little black dress, a piece that highlighted one of the maison’s most influential designs. The collection moved between playful, dreamy elements and the house’s classic codes, combining fishtail mermaid gowns, barely there “heel cap” shoes, and an oversized beach tote with black tweeds, florals, and mariner stripes. The result offered looks for both traditional Chanel clients and those drawn to a more imaginative direction.
While Chanel stayed in France, many other luxury brands brought their cruise collections to the United States. Demna selected New York for his first Gucci resort show, echoing the city’s role in the brand’s international growth after Gucci opened its first store outside Italy there in 1953. Louis Vuitton also presented in New York, staging its show at the Frick Collection museum, where Nicolas Ghesquière blended old-world elegance with the city’s modern energy. Dior, under Jonathan Anderson, held its first cruise show at the newly opened David Geffen Galleries at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, placing the presentation in a distinctly West Coast cultural setting.
The season reflects a broader fashion migration across major global cities, with designers using landmark locations to connect new collections to brand history and local identity. The timing also comes as North America prepares for the FIFA World Cup later this summer, giving the region added visibility as a stage for international events. Though fashion shows remain exclusive, the cruise season is drawing wide attention through images, celebrity attendance, and the distinct settings chosen by the houses.
As the season continues, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Dior are among the key names shaping the conversation around resort fashion. Their shows highlight a mix of heritage, reinvention, and destination storytelling, setting the tone for the months ahead.
